AIDA
Perfect for cross-stitching and counted-thread embroidery, Aida has a user-friendly grid-like structure with defined holes in a range of counts. The higher the count, the finer the structure. Aida comes in a range of colours, qualities and fibre content. Cheaper fabrics might contain synthetic fibres such as polyester, but these can be good for novices as the fabric is less likely to stretch, especially if stitching 'in hand', which is not using a frame.
APPLIQUÉ
A decorative technique, attaching fabric pieces onto a base fabric to create intricate designs. This method allows for a diverse range of embellishments, enhancing the visual appeal of various projects.
ASSISI WORK
A form of needlework that originates from the Italian town of Assisi. The background fabric is stitched while leaving the main design area blank (void). The stitched background creates a contrasting pattern, often forming the outline of the design. Often uses just 2 or three colours, especially black and red.
AYRSHIRE WORK
Traditional form of needlework from Ayrshire, Scotland. This intricate technique involves fine white embroidery on white fabric, creating delicate and elegant designs. Ayrshire work often features floral motifs, leaves, and other intricate patterns using stitches such as satin stitch and eyelets. This style of needlework gained popularity in the 19th century for its exquisite craftsmanship and remains a classic choice for those who appreciate the beauty of detailed embroidery.
BARGELLO
Originally Italian, this style of needlework involves creating striking colourful designs through a series of straight stitches in staggered arrangement creating a flame-like or wave pattern. Also known as Florentine work.
BASTING
A temporary stitching technique often used for piecing and quilting, using long, easily removed stitches to hold fabric layers together before permanent sewing to help accuracy. Also known as tacking.
BATTING
Also known as wadding, it adds loft and warmth in quilting. Batting comes in various fibre content like cotton, polyester, wool, or a blend, each offering different qualities of softness, warmth, or durability.
BINCA FABRIC
A fabric often used in cross-stitch and embroidery projects, especially popular for beginners and children, characterized by its easy-to-count grid.
BLACKWORK
A 16th Century embroidery technique using straight and back stitches traditionally in black thread to create geometric patterns to fill motifs.
BLOCKING
A finishing technique to help straighten and smooth canvaswork, especially needlepoint which can distort due to the diagonal stitches used. The piece is sprayed with water then pinned into the correct dimensions and allowed to dry in position.
CANVAS WORK
Traditionally tent stitch worked on a stiff openwork canvas, also known as Needlepoint (and also tapestry in the UK), or Petit Point when worked on a finer gauge.
COUCHING
Couching is a technique of laying a thread or yarn on the surface of the fabric and securing it using another, normally finer, thread. This is helpful when using threads that are especially fragile, too thick to pass through the canvas or would be less impressive broken up by stitching.
COUNT (THREAD COUNT)
'Count' is an abbreviation of the term 'Thread count' and is a traditional way of measuring the weave of a fabric. Counts for needlework might be 14 count or 18 count for example, meaning there are 14 or 18 threads per inch. This means that the higher the number, the finer the weave allowing for more detailed and intricate designs, whilst the lower the number, the easier and quicker to stitch..
COUNTED THREAD WORK
​Counted thread work is a form of needlework that involves creating designs by counting stitches on an even-weave fabric. Unlike embroidery on a pre-printed pattern, counted thread work relies on a plain fabric where stitches are counted to achieve precise placement. Common examples include cross-stitch, blackwork, and hardanger
CREWEL WORK
Crewel work is a traditional form of embroidery, popular in the early 17th Century, using wool yarn on a linen or other closely woven fabric. This technique is characterized by the use of a variety of stitches, including chain stitches, satin stitches, and long and short stitches, to create intricate and textured designs. Crewel work often features floral motifs, animals, and other elaborate patterns.
CROSS STITCH
Cross stitch is a popular form of needlework using X-shaped stitches on fabric to form a pattern or design. It is typically stitched on Aida or Evenweave fabric to produce uniform stitches, or it may be worked on fabric with a stamped design.
CUTWORK
Cutwork is a form of embroidery where part of the ground fabric has been cut away, the edges of the open areas being stitched to secure the fabric and create the design. Traditionally in white threads on white fabric, examples include Richelieu Cutwork and Broderie Anglaise, often featuring eyelets.
DMC
DMC is a French manufacturer of embroidery threads and needlecraft supplies. Originally named Dollfus-Mieg & Compagnie after the founder's son, and more than 250 years of heritage,, this iconic brand is renowned for exceptionally high quality threads, beloved by needleworkers worldwide.
DRAWN THREAD WORK
Drawn thread work was once known as Withdrawn thread work and is a technique worked by withdrawing threads of the ground fabric (usually loose woven, evenweave) which are then worked back in to secure the edge of the opening. The remaining threads are then embroidered with stitches. Hemstitch is one of the most widely used stitches, but ladder stitch, woven wheels, knotting and bars also feature.
EYELET
Eyelets are round holes in fabric with an embroidered perimeter.. Larger holes will be outlined in running stitch, cut, the fabric tucked back under the edges to be overstitched in place.. Smaller holes may be created using an awl, or through the tension of radiating stitches.
EVENWEAVE
Evenweave is a type of needlework fabric used especially for counted thread work as it has an equal number of threads per inch in both the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) directions. This balanced thread count results in a regular grid of evenly spaced holes or squares. Made from cotton, linen, or blends, they come in different thread counts, measured in threads per inch, typically 28, 32 or 36 count.
FILET LACE NETTING
A needlework technique creating a fine square or diamond structured mesh or net through knotting, and embroidery upon the net. creating a delicate lace.
FILLING STITCHES
Filling (or fill) stitches are used to cover the ground fabric in needlework, usually to enhance the design, but also may enhance structural strength and weight of a piece. Examples of filling stitches are brick stitch, wild goose chase stitch, satin stitch, couching, rice stitch
FLORENTINE WORK
See Bargello
FRACTIONAL STITCHES
Fractional stitches refer to stitches that are smaller or partial, typically half or quarter of a stitch and are often used to create more detailed and intricate designs in cross-stitch or other counted-thread embroidery.
FROGGING
​"Frogging" is a term to describe the process of unpicking stitches from a project, usually following a mistake. The term originates from the sound a frog makes ("ribbit"), whilst removing stitches one "rip-it" at a time.
FUSING
A technique often used in appliqué. The process involves using heat-activated adhesive material, often in the form of fusible web or interfacing, to bond fabric layers together.
GOLDWORK
Goldwork is an elaborate form of embroidery that involves the use of metallic threads, especially gilt copper or silver, to create opulent and intricate designs. Stitching techniques include couching, (metallic threads are laid on the fabric and stitched down), padding and satin stitch.
GRIDDING
The practice of creating a temporary grid on fabric to assist with stitch placement, especially for counted-thread techniques, such as cross-stitch or blackwork. The grid, usually 10x10 stitches can be marked with thread, water soluble markers or fabric pencils. This helps to keep accuracy in following charts or patterns.
GROUND
Ground fabric is the piece needlework is worked upon, the background to your work that may or may not be visible in the finished design. Careful choice of this fabric helps success in a project, for qualities such as appearance, texture, weave, fibre content, colour and weight.
HARDANGER
A traditional Norwegian style of counted thread embroidery characterized by geometric patterns of kloster blocks and cutwork using satin stitch and woven bars. This is usually worked on evenweave fabric, typically 22 count.
INTERLOCK CANVAS
A type of canvas, constructed with single woven threads producing a grid for stitching. The warp and weft threads are intertwined at the intersecting points of the mesh, giving a better stability especially for diagonal stitching like needlepoint.
LAYING TOOL
A pointed tool used in needlework, particularly embroidery, to manage the placement and alignment of threads. This tool is designed to guide threads smoothly and evenly, ensuring a neat and polished appearance in the finished piece.
NEEDLEPOINT
See Canvas Work
OPENWORK
Needlework style creating openings in the fabric to achieve a lacy, delicate and fragile effect. This is achieved through various techniques, including cutting away threads, using specific stitches, or manipulating the fabric. Examples include hardanger, whitework, drawn thread work.
PARKING
A technique in needlework, especially counted cross-stitch where coloured threads are left on needles 'parked' out of the way of continuing in other colours. This is an efficient method of reducing time and effort rethreading the needle, especially in multi-coloured complex designs..
PULLED THREADWORK
Typically worked on a slightly open evenweave fabric, this technique manipulates the threads of the ground fabric to create holes and openings through the tension of stitches pulling warp or weft threads to one side. For this reason, it is best worked in linen or cotton, which hold the manipulated position better than synthetic blends.
QUILTING
Quilting brings together a top fabric and a backing fabric with a sandwiched layer of wadding or padding in between. Quilting uses a variety of patterns and styles from simplistic straight lines to highly intricate, decorative patterns.
RAILROADING
A technique in stitching, especially for cross-stitch, of passing the needle in between the two strands of thread as you stitch from the front of the fabric to the back. This prevents the threads from twisting and distorting, creating smoother, more even stitches.
ROTATING FRAME
A needlework frame that is helpful for working projects larger than the frame. The fabric is secured to the frame usually by tacking to a tape fixed to the rolling bars. As the piece is completed, the fabric can be rolled, keeping tension taut within the frame.
SASHIKO
Sashiko is a traditional Japanese needlework used in the repair and strengthening of fabrics. This has evolved into a decorative needlework style, using running stitches, longer on the face than on the back of the work, in geometric patterns and designs. Sashiko thread is not split, but remains intact, retaining its strength, Sashiko needles are long, enabling multiple stitches in smooth, efficient stitching.
SHADOW WORK
A decorative needlework style using herringbone stitch worked on the back of a semi translucent fabric within an outline worked on the front. This is especially effective in uses where a light appears behind, such as a lampshade or window furnishing.
SMOCKING
A decorative and practical technique of securing fine pleating using embroidery stitches on the face of the pleat edges, creating a form of elastication with fullness where the pleats become free. Popular in bodices and sleeves, especially infants and children's wear.
STUMPWORK
A 17th Century style of Embroidery featuring raised elements, giving a 3D effect. These raised motifs might be padded, embroidered appliqués, or wire-edged.
TAMBOUR EMBROIDERY
Worked with a special tool - a tambour hook, this needlework style is a form of chain stitch worked on taut fabric in a frame.
TRAPUNTO
An Italian Renaissance style of quilting where two layers of fabric are stitched together in intricate designs of small motifs and channels. The backing fabric is then cut and the channel or motif stuffed and padded through this opening. This gives the needleworker control in varying the softness or fullness of padding within the design.
WASTE CANVAS
Used in embroidery to transfer a design onto fabrics as a temporary guide for stitching, allowing the creation of intricate designs on surfaces that aren't suitable for direct embroidery. After stitching, the waste canvas is dampened or dissolved, leaving the embroidered design on the target fabric.
WHITEWORK
White embroidery on white fabric typically involving intricate and delicate designs using for example satin stitch, eyelets, and pulled thread techniques. Timeless, understated and elegant.